1. How can you tell if it’s
time for a new roof?
There are three ways you’ll be alerted to the fact that your
roof needs replacement. The first two are the most innocuous – you’ll either
see loose or missing shingles on the roof, or you’ll see other homeowners in
your neighborhood, with homes built the same age, start replacing their roofs.
The third option is the least desirable – your existing roof is leaking. If
that’s the case, you’ll probably see brown spots on the ceiling or walls or it
smells wet or damp along interior walls. Those are sure-fire signs of water
damage, which is probably coming from your roof (unless it’s a plumbing leak.)
Be sure to proactively investigate and fix the problem because water damage from
a leaky roof can cause serious (and extremely expensive) damage to your home’s
structure or even dangerous mold.
2. Permits?
Most local ordinances require you to pull a permit before
you replace your roof. If you’re hiring a licensed roofing contractor, they’ll
be able to advise you on local regulations and even obtain the permit for you
before they start the job.
3. Shingling over your existing roof or ripping it off.
Sometimes, you have to tear off the initial shingles and roofing materials before you install a new roof. But it may be possible to re-shingle right over the existing roof. This saves you money but there are drawbacks; if you have defects in the old roof, they still need to be addressed before you cover them with nee shingles. You may still have condensation or ventilation issues that are masked when you put on a new roof, but not fixed. When you tear off your old roofing you get to thoroughly examine the condition of the wood deck underneath, as well as lay a new underlayment, which helps protect against water damage. Most municipal codes only allow a certain number of re-roofs before you have to rip it out and start clean, typically three.
4. Underneath your roof.
Under your finished roof lies a protective layer called the
underlayment, or roofing felt. Its purpose is to add an additional layer of
moisture between your roof deck and your shingles. This is very important in
area where extreme cold temperatures and snow and ice can cause ice damns
underneath the roof. Beneath the roofing felt is a “deck” of plywood sheathing,
which is attached to the rafters underneath.
5. Ventilation.
Many homeowners don’t realize that a house’s roof and
structure are not a “closed system,” but actually requires proper ventilation
to allow it to “breathe” and dry out. Efficient ventilation will reduce attic
heat, reduce attic moisture and condensation, and prevent weather infiltration.
A roofing contractor will be able to inspect your current ventilation and
advise you on best options, including building codes in your area.
6. Roofing penetrations.
Penetrations are the area where there are intrusion points
through the roof. It may seem like a roof is one continuous plane, but in fact
there are pipes, vents, chimneys, antennas, and skylights that breach the roof.
It’s so important to have the right specialty flashing and proper instillation
techniques to keep your penetration points weatherproof. The best roof in the
world will do you no good if water still gets in!
7. Rafters.
Likewise, rafters are areas of the roof where two separate
angles intersect and need to be laid out and sealed correctly. Usually a trough
forms at this intersections, where debris and water can collect and sit, so
it’s important there is proper angled drainage and a tight seal.
8. Pitch.
When choosing a roofing product, it’s also important to identify
your roof’s pitch. The most common roof pitches are A-frame roofs (traditionally found in
cottages,) gable roofs, hip roofs, shed roofs, and flat roofs.
9. Slope.
Each roof has it’s own slope, or steepness (rise vs. run,) that makes different
types of roofing materials a better choice. For instance, a roof slope below
2/12 (2 inches per one foot) cannot use shingles. But roof slopes between
2/12 and 4/12 (flatter roofs) require specific low-slope application
techniques, including application of waterproofing underlayment. While roof
slopes above 21/12 require steep-slope application techniques to install
it correctly.
10. Types of roofing.
You find this usually on homes with flat rooflines or very
steep rooflines. Metal roofs are particularly practical on homes in cold
climates, where snow will slide off the metal grooved channels instead of
sitting and accumulating, where weight, ice damns, and water when it melts can
cause serious damage. Some luxury homes even have copper roofs. Metal roofs
usually last up to 50 years.
Tile shingles.
Tiles shingles are extremely strong and durable, lasting up to 80 years. They’re usually found on Mediterranean or Spanish-style homes. However, it takes a very good roofing contractor to know how to install a tile roof correctly, and the cost will be much higher.
Wood shingles.
Also called, “shake” roofing, for a period around the early
1980’s, wood shingles were very popular among builders, and considered a
high-end look. But they served to be impractical, susceptible to drying,
cracking, and leakage. Most people have to replace their wood shingle roof
after about 20 years, and choose a new material. However there are some areas
where they still use good quality wood shingles – made out of redwood, not
cheaper cedar.
Asphalt shingles.
Asphalt shingles are the most common type of roofing
material. They come in many different colors and qualities vary. It’s important
to do a little research and ask your roofing contractor for a recommendation,
because some shingles are better than others and often they come with energy
rebates. But be careful when it comes to believing audacious claims about
warranties – the fine print usually disqualifies homeowners from ever
collecting a dime in 99% of cases. A good asphalt shingle should last you 20-30
years.
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